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A Sculpture Artist Who Learned Watchmaking.
This Audemars Piguet Ellipse Skeleton from the 1980s feels less like a product and more like something a sculpture artist decided to miniaturize for the wrist. The oval case in 18k rose gold measures 27mm by 35mm, a format that sits neatly and disappears under a cuff. Then you look down and realize disappearing is the last thing it intends to do.
The entire dial is open and fully skeletonised. This is hand-engraved 14k solid gold, carved with swirling foliage, scrolling borders, and fine, repeating patterns that catch light differently with every tilt. The bridges are pierced and shaped to flow with the ellipse of the case. There are no harsh edges. Everything curves. Everything fills space with purpose.
Look closely and you start to see layers. The movement has been cut away, then engraved with delicate leaf motifs. The jewel settings add tiny flashes of ruby against the warm rose tone of the plates. Even the outer frame that sandwiches the movement carries ornamental engraving, almost like crown moldings inside a historic home.
There is almost no real estate left for branding. The Audemars Piguet name is printed beneath the crystal, so it appears to float above the movement. You don’t need a large dial logo when the work speaks this clearly.
Turn it over and the show continues. The movement can be admired from both sides, revealing the depth of the cutting and finishing. Creating a skeletonised calibre like this in the early 80s was not about speed or efficiency, it was about patience. Engraving by hand, one cut at a time. This was high craft at a moment when ultra-thin dress watches were redefining elegance, and Audemars Piguet was proving that mechanics could also be art.
This example is in remarkable condition. Close to mint. The original burgundy alligator strap remains untouched, never worn, and the watch is fitted with its original 18k rose gold AP tang buckle. Finding one like this, preserved this well, is another story.
On the wrist, it has a strange effect. Hardcore collectors lean in immediately, scanning the engraving and bridge shapes. Casual observers simply see something beautiful and stop mid-sentence. It bridges both worlds and to me, that's a beautiful effect.
Overall condition is exceptional, showing minimal signs of wear and preserved close to mint.
The 18k rose gold oval case remains sharp with defined edges and clear hallmarks, including the 750 stamp on the case flank.
The fully skeletonised 14k rose gold movement has crisp hand-engraving and vibrant jewels.
The Audemars Piguet signature beneath the crystal is intact and clear.
The caseback and interior engravings are clean and well-defined, with serial numbers and hallmarks present and legible.
The black hands and crystal are in excellent condition with no notable flaws visible to the naked eye.
The original burgundy alligator strap is unworn and paired with its original 18k rose gold Audemars Piguet tang buckle.
The manual-wind movement is running properly and functioning as intended.
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