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The Octagon with a Hawk Eye Stare.
Ever worn a brewing thunderstorm on your wrist? This late-1970s Audemars Piguet wears a rare slice of Hawk's Eye — a deep blue chatoyant stone whose color swirls and shifts with every tilt of the wrist. One moment it’s midnight steel, the next a ribbon of gold runs through it like lightning trapped in glass. Each dial is cut from a unique stone, and this one’s natural veining tells its own story — a geological fingerprint that can’t be repeated.
The case? Octagonal, but not in the Royal Oak sense. Wider, more elongated, and unapologetically its own thing — proof that AP in the ’70s wasn’t afraid to experiment. Measuring 33mm wide in solid 18K yellow gold, it carries a vintage heft that feels substantial without tipping into ostentation.
Flowing seamlessly from the case is a woven 18K gold bracelet, made by none other than Jean-Pierre Ecoffey — a name whispered reverently among bracelet connoisseurs. Ecoffey’s work for Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet remains unmatched, and here his signature JPE hallmark hides inside the clasp. The pattern is tight, textured, and almost reptilian — the kind of detail you catch yourself staring at during idle moments.
The dial layout is pure minimalism: diamond markers at 3, 6, and 9, with three clustered at 12 to anchor the design. The rest is open space for the stone to perform. A gold beaded crown capped with a blue sapphire cabochon (yes, Cartier fans, you’re seeing what you think you’re seeing) adds a final hit of refinement. Under the hood, AP’s ultra-thin Calibre 2003/1 manual wind — 17 jewels, a pedigree movement — keeps things as precise as it is elegant.
Measuring just under 20cm when laid flat, it will fit up to a 7.3-inch wrist, with two micro-adjustments for comfort. The crystal is sapphire, the condition is superb, and the style is the kind you can’t source from today’s AP catalogue. This is from an era when the brand allowed itself to be playful with shape, texture, and materials — and we’re all better for it.
This watch is in outstanding vintage condition with sharp details throughout.
Solid 18K yellow gold case is excellent with only light hairline scratches from careful wear.
Hawk Eye stone dial is free of cracks, with only natural veining visible.
Sapphire crystal is clear and hands remain crisp with no oxidation.
Solid 18K yellow gold integrated bracelet by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey shows no stretch or warping and very sharp definition in its woven pattern.
Serial number and hallmarks on the case back are deep, legible, and well-preserved.
Calibre 2003/1 manual-wind movement is running accurately and reliably.
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