Boucheron Carrée Enamel

Before Boucheron became a name discussed among watch collectors, it was already a legend among jewelers. In the 1960s, the Maison introduced the Carrée—French for “square”—a minimalist marvel that blended Parisian elegance with mechanical precision. The earliest models carried no signature on the dial, but this later 1970s example proudly bears the Boucheron name, marking its evolution from jewelry experiment to fully realized timepiece.

At first glance, it’s a simple gold square framed in royal blue enamel. But like all things Boucheron, the closer you look, the more delightful the complications become. The 18k yellow gold case is signed nearly everywhere—caseback, sides, and clasp—with crisp eagle head hallmarks that read like hidden Easter eggs for collectors. And then there’s that small engraving on the back: BT 1203255. It’s not a serial number, nor a reference, but a French patent—one that corresponds to Boucheron’s ingenious buckle system.

Instead of attaching with traditional lugs, the strap slides directly into the case, locking with a satisfying click and leaving no visible join. It’s a piece of design theater few brands even attempted, let alone perfected. The result is a clean cuff of blue and gold that feels more bespoke jewelry than wristwatch.

The bezel’s deep blue enamel remains beautifully preserved, framing a hand-finished gold dial that ripples with a texture. No numerals, no markers—just the brand name and two gold hands that catch light like jewelry in motion. We’ve paired it with a new leather strap that matches the bezel’s color and fits a 6.5 to 6.75" wrist. As each strap must be made to size, consider it an invitation to have something crafted purely for you.

Inside ticks a hand-wound movement topped by a cabochon crown, tying the watch neatly back to Boucheron’s jewelry roots.

In the same era when Cartier’s Tank and Piaget’s shaped watches ruled the Parisian scene, Boucheron quietly built pieces for those who preferred innovation over popularity. The Carrée remains one of those “if you know, you know” watches—rare, inventive, and undeniably beautiful in its restraint.