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Older Than the Tank.
The Tank may be Cartier’s most famous silhouette, but the Tortue got there first.
Louis Cartier introduced the tortoise-shaped design in 1909, almost a decade before the Tank. Its curved form was reportedly inspired by the arches of Balinese temples that Cartier encountered during his travels through Asia. More than a century later, it remains one of the Maison’s oldest watch designs still in production, even if it has never attracted quite the same crowd as its younger sibling.
This example comes from the Tortue’s 1982 revival, when Cartier reintroduced the model as the “New Tortue.” Its serial number identifies it as number 60, placing it among the earliest pieces from this production and giving an already historic design another appealing footnote.
The 18k yellow gold case measures 23mm across and 30mm from end to end. Its curved sides follow the wrist, while the smooth bezel frames Cartier’s familiar Roman numerals, chemin de fer minute track and blued-steel hands. The sapphire cabochon finishes the recipe, as tradition demands.
Inside is the Frédéric Piguet calibre 21, an ultra-thin hand-wound movement used across several vintage Cartier models, including versions of the Tank and Santos-Dumont. Its slender proportions allow the case to remain exceptionally thin.
The grain-of-rice bracelet may be the best part. Its many rounded 18k gold links form a dense, flexible weave that feels substantial without becoming rigid. Cartier also concealed the deployant clasp beneath the links, leaving the pattern uninterrupted around the wrist. It fits approximately a 7-inch wrist.
Two screws secure the bracelet to the case, allowing it to be removed and replaced with a leather strap. The transformation is considerable: gold bracelet for the full Cartier treatment, or leather for something closer to the earliest Tortues.
The Tank gets the headlines. This one arrived almost a decade earlier, houses one of Cartier’s favoured ultra-thin movements and comes attached to a bracelet worth keeping permanently in place, even if Cartier thoughtfully gave you options.
The watch is in very good vintage condition with light wear consistent with age.
The 18k yellow gold case retains its curved profile with light surface marks and signs of previous polishing.
The original dial is well preserved with light age-related marks and some patina around the perimeter.
The caseback retains its Cartier signature, serial number and gold hallmarks, all of which remain visible.
The blued-steel hands are well preserved, while the crystal has a few surface scuffs.
The original removable grain-of-rice bracelet remains flexible and secure, closes with its concealed deployant clasp and fits approximately a 7-inch wrist.
The watch is powered by the hand-wound Frédéric Piguet calibre 21 and is keeping good time.
The watch is accompanied by its original Cartier presentation box.
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