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All Hands on Deck.
Before the Cape Cod was a watch, its defining shape was holding boats in place.
In 1937, Robert Dumas was walking along the Normandy coast when the anchor chains securing boats along the shore caught his eye. He translated their oval links and central bars into the Chaîne d’Ancre bracelet, first made in silver the following year. It became one of Hermès’ most recognizable designs and has travelled through the house’s jewellery, accessories and watches ever since.
More than half a century later, Henri d’Origny returned to that link when he designed the Cape Cod in 1991. Asked to create a square watch, he placed the square dial inside a rectangular case formed from two halves of the Chaîne d’Ancre. Together, they create the elongated figure-eight outline surrounding the dial. With an anchor chain built into the case, the name Cape Cod could hardly be more fitting.
This rare 1990s example takes that maritime foundation somewhere considerably more glamorous. The 23 by 33mm case is made from 18k white gold, with factory-set diamonds following its outer frame and ruby baguettes crossing the upper and lower anchor links. Diamond-set central bars separate the rubies and secure the burgundy alligator strap, preserving the original construction while giving it far more colour.
Mother-of-pearl feels particularly at home here. Formed in water and naturally iridescent, it continues the nautical story across the dial. The ruby-coloured Arabic numerals mirror the baguettes surrounding the case, while their elongated, open forms echo the Chaîne d’Ancre itself. You can see it most clearly in the 6, 8 and 9, each resembling a small variation on the anchor link and its central bar. Hermès effectively created a custom numeral style around the same idea that shaped the case.
Tiny mother-of-pearl inserts inside the hands complete the dial, because apparently the dial alone was not enough. On the reverse, the engraved Hermès horse-and-carriage medallion reconnects the watch with the broader history of the house, while its original hallmarked 18k white gold Hermès buckle completes the package.
Factory ruby baguettes seldom appear on vintage Cape Cod models, particularly alongside diamonds, a mother-of-pearl dial and matching mother-of-pearl hands. This is one of Hermès’ best-known designs returning from sea with considerably more than a postcard.
The watch is in excellent overall condition.
The 18k white gold case is well preserved, with very light surface wear.
The factory-set diamonds and ruby baguettes remain pristine and intact.
The mother-of-pearl dial is clean, with crisp printing and mint Arabic numerals.
The caseback retains its engraved Hermès medallion and clearly defined markings.
The hands, mother-of-pearl inserts and sapphire crystal are well preserved.
The Hermès alligator strap shows wear and creasing consistent with age and is fitted with its original hallmarked 18k white gold Hermès buckle.
The quartz movement is running and functioning correctly.
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