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Under Cover.
In the 1950s, checking the time could still be considered poor manners for a woman in polite company. Jaeger-LeCoultre found a particularly chic solution: place the watch beneath a gold cover and make the whole thing look like jewelry.
This French-made Secret Watch is built around a substantial 18k yellow gold bracelet composed of five rows of rounded, interlocking links. At 12mm wide, it has the sleek proportions of a bracelet but enough volume to feel wonderfully substantial on the wrist. The covered case follows the same pattern, allowing the watch to disappear completely when closed. Even the clasp gets in on the act, secured by a small safety catch before opening in two stages.
Lift the hinged cover and a beautifully preserved dial appears underneath. Its softly textured white surface is printed with Arabic numerals and linear hour markers, finished with blued steel hands and the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature. It is wonderfully petite, although the surrounding gold makes the reveal feel rather grand. A small horological éclair, if you will, with a mechanical movement hidden inside.
The Duoplan movement began in 1925 and solved one of watchmaking’s more stubborn problems. Small movements were fashionable, particularly for women’s watches, but reducing their size usually came at the expense of accuracy. By arranging the movement across two superimposed levels, Jaeger-LeCoultre created space for a larger balance while keeping the calibre remarkably compact. That format opened the door to slimmer cases and far more inventive jewelry watches.
This French-made Duoplan Secret houses the manual-wound calibre 403, wound from the caseback so that the bracelet remains uninterrupted from above. Its historical importance has not been overlooked by Jaeger-LeCoultre. The Maison selected a Duoplan Secret for its own Collectibles program, a group devoted to significant watches from its twentieth-century production.
Closed for cocktails and opened when punctuality finally matters, it is very French in its ability to be practical without ever looking overly practical. Either way, the result is ridiculously chic.
The watch is in excellent overall vintage condition with light wear consistent with age.
The 18k yellow gold covered case is well preserved, with a secure hinged lid and defined edges.
The softly textured white dial is clean and well preserved, with crisp printing and a clear Jaeger-LeCoultre signature.
The caseback retains serial number 106649 and French gold hallmarks.
The blued steel hands are well preserved, and the crystal remains clear.
The integrated five-link gold bracelet is in excellent condition with a secure concealed clasp and safety catch, fitting wrists up to approximately 6 inches.
The manual-wound Jaeger-LeCoultre Duoplan calibre 403 is wound through the caseback.
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