Patek Philippe Ellipse 3738

In the late 1960s, when the world was busy experimenting with everything from music to modern art, Patek Philippe introduced something radical in its own way. The Ellipse. It arrived without traditional lugs and without a round case, and it made no effort to follow what everyone else was doing. Instead, it was built around a shape drawn from the Golden Ratio, a proportion that has guided artists and thinkers for centuries.

It felt almost rebellious for a house known for Calatravas and perpetual calendars. And yet it worked. The Ellipse became one of the purest expressions of Patek’s design language. It never chased trends or demanded attention, yet it has always been unmistakable.

This reference 3738 arrived in 1977, nine years after the Ellipse first stepped onto the stage. It marked a turning point. Under the hood sat the brand-new caliber 240, Patek’s ultra-thin automatic powered by a micro-rotor. At the time, it was the thinnest automatic movement in production. That tiny off-center rotor allowed the case to remain beautifully slim, hugging the wrist like it was born there. The same caliber would later power Nautilus models, perpetual calendars, and refined Calatravas. That tells you everything you need to know about its pedigree.

On the wrist, the 31 x 35mm case wears like the “jumbo” it was intended to be. The proportions are balanced in a way that makes the watch feel larger than the numbers suggest. It sits flat, composed, and purposeful. The 18k yellow gold case glows without excess polish drama. Even the original 18k Ellipse buckle mirrors the case profile, a small detail that collectors always appreciate.

Then there’s the dial.

Cobalt blue with a sunburst finish that radiates outward from the center. Under direct light it blooms electric. In softer light it deepens to navy. It has that late-80s MK3 configuration with sans serif type, rectangular hands, rounded baton markers, and the sigma SWISS sigma at six. A dial that signals solid gold applied indexes and hands. It is clean, sharp, and unmistakably period correct.

Vintage ads from the era spoke about belonging to an “exclusive circle.” The message was subtle but clear. Owning an Ellipse meant you understood proportion, heritage, and the quiet power of good design. It was marketed as something that said more about you than it did about the time. That message still lands today.

Within the Patek universe, the Ellipse occupies a special lane. The Calatrava is classical round perfection. The Nautilus changed the game in sport elegance. The Ellipse sits in between as the pure design object. It is the dress watch for someone who already knows the rules and chooses something more interesting.

This example comes fitted on a brand new dark navy alligator strap that amplifies the dial beautifully. It feels contemporary without losing its late-80s charm. Slip it under a cuff and it disappears. Pull your sleeve back at dinner and the dial catches the candlelight in a way that makes conversation pause for half a second.

You may be buying it for yourself today. Realistically, you are buying it for whoever inherits it. The Ellipse has that effect. It feels current in 1988. It feels current now. It will likely feel the same thirty years from today.

Some watches track time. Others become part of a family timeline.

The 3738 does both.