Patek Philippe Ellipse 3748

Patek Philippe’s Ellipse has always been a watch that plays with proportions and restraint, and this reference 3748 from the 1980s shows just how refined that formula can get.

Crafted in solid 18k white gold, its 27mm by 32mm case houses a dial that steals the show — a deep blue sunburst that changes character depending on the light. Sometimes it’s near-black with a subtle shimmer, other times it glows with electric cobalt streaks, all radiating out from the center in perfect symmetry. Slim indices and hands keep the composition clean, with no date window or clutter to distract from the dial’s shift in mood.

Inside beats Patek’s manual-wind caliber 215, a movement as lean and efficient as the case that houses it. The crown is generously sized, engraved with the Calatrava cross, making winding feel as deliberate and satisfying as it should.

Then there’s the bracelet — an integrated white gold creation by the brand. The work here uses angled, interlocking links that catch the light differently with every movement. It’s a complexity that contrasts beautifully with the minimalism of the dial. The gold purity hallmark hides beneath the clasp, along with Patek’s own signature. At 18cm in length, it will fit wrists up to 6.8 inches.

It’s worth noting — the pairing of blue and white gold here means it can easily pass for stainless steel. For someone who appreciates the heft and gravitas of gold but prefers to keep it under the radar, this carries that quiet luxe look. It’s an ideal companion for the boardroom, where discretion is currency, yet it transitions just as effortlessly to the weekend — a plain tee, a good coffee, and the reassuring weight of precious metal on your wrist, without the flash of “look at me” gold.

This is the kind of Ellipse that rewards repeated wear. The more you live with it, the more you notice — the soft curve of the case edges, the fluid drape of the bracelet, the way that blue dial refuses to look the same twice.