Tiffany & Co. Schlumberger Watch

Every so often, a watch turns up that makes you wonder why this design isn’t everywhere. This Tiffany & Co. x Jean Schlumberger reference from the 1990s is one of those pieces — a clever, slightly rebellious take on how a watch should sit on the wrist. Schlumberger, best known for his wildly imaginative jewelry, rarely dabbled in watch design. When he did, it looked nothing like the rest of Tiffany’s catalogue.

The 18k yellow gold case measures 20mm by 32.5mm and frames a champagne dial with clean stick indices. Each index is razor-straight, catching the light in neat, disciplined flashes — a restrained counterpoint to the quietly audacious case. A sapphire crystal keeps everything sharp.

But the real magic here is the fastening system: the strap doesn’t connect underneath your wrist at all. Instead, a hinged gold frame locks over the top of the case, keeping the lines unbroken and letting the green alligator strap run clean and uninterrupted around your wrist. Seen from above, it looks impossibly tidy. Seen from the side, it’s a piece of mechanical theater.

This top-mounted buckle system isn’t entirely without precedent — Boucheron has played with similar ideas — but Tiffany’s execution is all its own. The crown is tucked away into a recessed slot on the back, keeping it from breaking the symmetry or pressing against your wrist. The result is a smooth-wearing, unexpectedly modern-feeling watch that’s still every inch a product of its era.

Tiffany has a long history of collaborations with horology’s greats — Patek Philippe, Rolex, and others. Partnering with Jean Schlumberger for a watch feels like a deliberate detour into the unexpected, a reminder that the brand’s adventurous streak runs deep. In the sea of predictable dress watches, this is the one doing laps in its own lane.