Vacheron Constantin Calatrava "Fancy Lugs"

18k gold, Eggly case, Cal. 455/3B, fancy lugs

$7,499 USD
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Vacheron Constantin Calatrava "Fancy Lugs"
$7,499 USD
Available
Available
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The Dress Watch With Shoulders.

The post-war decades were a golden age for case design.

Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet were all producing exceptional movements and beautifully balanced dials, but many of the watches collectors chase today share another common thread. The cases became increasingly expressive. Lugs stretched, curved, flared, twisted, and folded in ways that would rarely survive a modern design meeting.

This Vacheron Constantin from the 1950s belongs squarely in that tradition.

At its center sits everything you would hope to find from one of Geneva's great watchmakers. A silver enamel dial with applied Arabic numerals, sharp dagger indices, a small seconds register above six, and the manually wound calibre 455/3B hidden beneath an 18k yellow gold case.

Then there are the lugs.

Long, sculpted, and deeply integrated into the case, they feel less like separate components and more like an extension of the watch itself. Rather than reaching outward, they appear to wrap around the case and hold it in place. The result is a design that gives the watch an unusual sense of strength for something so elegant.

"If the Maltese Cross became a watch case, it might look something like this."

What makes this example particularly interesting is the case maker behind it. Eggly & Cie of Geneva supplied cases to many of the most respected names in Swiss watchmaking, including Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet. Their work frequently appeared on watches where the case deserved as much attention as the movement inside, and this watch is an excellent example of why collectors pay attention to those small hallmarks hidden inside the caseback.

The proportions only add to its appeal. Measuring 33.5mm, it wears surprisingly modern for a watch of this era. The elongated lugs visually extend the case even further, giving it a presence that feels larger than the numbers would suggest.

Viewed straight on, the design almost resembles a shield surrounding the dial. Perhaps that's why it feels so distinctly Vacheron Constantin. The shape echoes the strength and symmetry of the Maltese Cross without ever directly copying it.

Seventy years later, the dial remains handsome, the movement remains excellent, and the case still manages to stop you mid-scroll.

That's usually a good sign.

Very good overall vintage condition with a strong case profile and attractive original dial.

The 18k yellow gold case remains well preserved with light wear visible around the lugs and caseback consistent with age and use.

The original silver dial displays well with applied Arabic numerals, dagger indices, and small scattered spots visible under close inspection.

The caseback shows light surface scratches from normal wear and remains free from any significant distractions.

The hands, markers, and crown remain well matched and present attractively.

The watch is fitted to a newer brown ostrich leather strap with a generic gold-tone tang buckle.

The manually wound Vacheron Constantin calibre 455/3B is running well at the time of cataloguing.

Case Size
33.5mm
Case Material
18K Yellow Gold
Bracelet / Strap
Brown Ostrich Leather. Gold Tang Buckle
Movement
Cal. 455/3B. Manual wound
Dial
Silver
Glass
Acrylic
Box / Papers
None
Year
1950s
Reference
N/A
Payments: Listed price is for bank wire transfer. Major credit cards are accepted with a 4.5% processing fee. CAD quotes available upon request.

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US Tariffs: We take a thoughtful cross-border approach to keep import costs low with no unexpected surprises.

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We are here to be your trusted source of romantic vintage watches. We stand behind the products we curate with a 100% authenticity guarantee, a 1 year warranty and a 3-day return policy to ensure you are completely satisfied with your purchase.

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