1960s Cartier Baignoire

There’s signature, and then there’s signature.

At first glance, this 1960s Cartier Baignoire might seem demure — an ovular yellow gold case, Roman numerals, cabochon crown. Then you look closer, and it hits you: that dial isn’t signed in the usual Cartier serif. It’s written like someone borrowed your best fountain pen to sign a love letter — oversized, flourished, almost leaning into the Roman numerals like it’s flirting with them. And it kind of is.

That cursive script is a dead giveaway. This isn’t just a Cartier. It’s a Cartier built with Swiss watchmaker Bueche Girod — the horological power couple you didn’t know you needed. Active from the late 1940s, Bueche Girod quietly became the go-to workshop for discreet excellence. They made cases and movements not just for Cartier, but for other design houses like Bulova and Universal Genève. And this piece is a perfect example of their behind-the-scenes brilliance.

The 18k yellow gold case is compact at 21 x 30mm and beautifully egg-shaped — or “bathtub-shaped,” if you go by the literal French. The Baignoire design dates back to 1912 and was formalized in the 1950s, its curves made to hug the wrist, not shout off it. On this example, the flowing dial layout is a quiet masterpiece in its own right. The Roman numerals swell and shrink with the rhythm of the case — wide at the center, narrow at the poles — like they’re breathing in sync with the case's curves. It’s subtle, but so intentional it’s impossible to unsee.

Inside is a hand-wound, 17-jewel Swiss movement by Bueche Girod, sharp and running strong. Underneath the caseback you’ll spot that familiar dual-stamp setup: the signature Cartier hand-engraved inventory number, and above it, Bueche Girod’s tell-tale stamped layout — serial followed by model (Y 7743). Inside the case you’ll also find the 750 hallmark and case maker mark “122” for Oreade, another clue that this was a proper Swiss-Cartier collaboration built from the ground up.

It comes fitted on a brand new denim-textured alligator strap with a modern Cartier 18k deployant buckle — a rare convenience on a vintage piece, especially one this dainty. Adjustable on the fly, which means more wear, less fuss.

It’s not just about scarcity or period detail. This Baignoire earns your attention with nuance. It's gold, but it’s not gaudy. Signed, but unconventionally so. Made by two names who knew that great things don’t need explaining — they just need to be worn.