Louis Vuitton Monterey II

Louis Vuitton's first steps into watchmaking were curious, experimental, and unapologetically strange. The Monterey II is living proof and so much more.

Launched in 1988 and designed by Gae Aulenti, the Monterey II arrived at a time when fashion houses were still treated as outsiders in serious horology. Rather than follow existing templates, Louis Vuitton partnered with IWC and leaned fully into design thinking. The result feels more like an object than a watch, closer to industrial design than traditional wristwear.

The case is ceramic—years before ceramic became a familiar material in watchmaking. Thick, domed, and almost buoyant, it measures 37mm but wears larger due to its height and rounded profile. On the wrist, it feels less like a flat instrument and more like something you’re carrying with you, noticeable in a way few watches are.

Then there’s the crown. Placed at 12 o’clock and capped in gold, it gives the Monterey II its cult nickname, the “unicorn.” This single crown controls the time, the alarm, and the crescent-tipped pointer date, which tracks the month around the outer ring. The date display is genuinely useful, offering a clear sense of how far you’ve moved through the month rather than isolating the information to a small window. Even better, the alarm function on this example is fully operational—something that’s increasingly rare, as many surviving Monterey IIs have long since lost this capability.

The dial itself is dense but deliberate. Railroad tracks, Arabic numerals, syringe hands, and that red calendar scale all coexist without tipping into confusion. It reads almost like a technical diagram, yet remains playful and intuitive. This was Louis Vuitton learning the language of watchmaking, but speaking it in its own accent.

Equally clever is the strap system. Instead of spring bars, a single-length strap slides through the case and secures via a clasp inspired by Louis Vuitton’s luggage hardware. It’s tactile, interactive, and unmistakably tied to the brand’s DNA. This watch includes both original straps—red and black—allowing the character of the watch to shift dramatically with a simple swap.

For years, the Monterey II lived in relative obscurity. Too unconventional for traditional collectors and too early for modern fashion-watch enthusiasm, it existed in a narrow in-between. That changed as collectors began reassessing late ’80s and early ’90s design, and the Monterey II emerged as a genuine deep cut. Divisive, distinctive, and increasingly difficult to find intact.

Its reissue in 18k yellow gold in 2025 only reinforced the point: Louis Vuitton still believes in this design. Offered here with its original straps and original presentation box—a detail that’s seldom preserved—this Monterey II represents the watch at its most complete. A cult classic not because it tried to impress, but because it never tried to blend in.