Patek Philippe 1593 "Hour Glass"

There was a moment in the 1940s and 1950s when Patek Philippe allowed itself to be playful. Not playful in color or gimmick, but in form. This was the era when shaped watches were not exercises in caution. They were acts of belief. Belief that proportion mattered. Belief that a case could be emotional. Belief that time deserved a body, not just a frame.

The reference 1593 sits squarely in that window. Known among collectors as the “Hour Glass,” the nickname is not poetic license. It is literal. From the front, the watch reads long and composed, almost Tank-like in its posture. Look again, just a few degrees off center, and the case tightens at the middle before flaring outward at the lugs. Turn it fully to the side and the profile sharpens into something sculptural, almost pyramid-like. The watch does not settle on a single identity. It changes with your gaze. That is the trick. That is the reward.

At 23 by 41 millimeters, the proportions feel remarkably current. It wears with presence, not bulk, helped by those outward-facing lugs that stretch visually across the wrist. This is one of those rare mid-century designs that feels neither nostalgic nor modern. It exists comfortably outside of trend cycles, which explains why Patek never really returned to shapes this expressive in later decades.

The silvered dial is equally thoughtful. Raised enamel printing anchors the signature and minute track with a permanence that flat pad printing never quite achieved. Decades later, the text still feels crisp and deliberate. Applied gold numerals at twelve, three, and nine balance sharp baton markers, while the small seconds sits low and calm, quietly doing its job.

Inside is the manually wound Caliber 9-90, developed specifically for Patek’s shaped cases. It is slim, purposeful, and deeply appropriate for a watch like this. Winding it is a daily ritual worth mentioning. The oversized crown turns with a tactile resistance that feels closer to tuning an old stereo knob than operating a machine. It asks for attention. It gives something back.

Approximately 500 examples were produced in yellow gold. This one remains paired with its original 18k Patek Philippe buckle, fitted to a black crocodile strap that suits the case’s drama without competing for it.

An hourglass measures time by letting it pass. Slowly. Visibly. Honestly. This watch does the same, not by telling you how fast the day is moving, but by reminding you that time has shape if you bother to look.